2. The Science of Waves
Anyone who wants to go large wave surfing must first grasp the science underlying waves. The interaction of wind and water generates waves, which then carry over the ocean their energy. Wave creation is influenced by several elements including wind speed, duration, and fetch—that is, the distance the wind blows across.
Ripples produced by wind blowing across the ocean’s surface eventually develop into more expansive waves. The strength of the wind and the distance these waves cover define their height and force. Massive swells produced by storms can cover thousands of kilometres before reaching the coast, providing perfect conditions for extreme wave surfing.
Waves interact with the ocean floor as they get closer to the coast, rising and shattering. Surfers ride this process sometimes referred to as wave breaking. Beach breaks, point breaks, and reef breaks—among other wave forms—offer surfers different situations. Every kind offers different possibilities and difficulties, hence great wave surfers must be able to choose their waves.
Moreover, wave generation depends much on the morphology of the ocean floor. For surfers, underwater topography can produce strong waves that break in particular ways providing exciting rides. Knowing these dynamics helps surfers predict wave behaviour, so guiding their posture for the best possible ride.
Being safe and successful in big wave surfing depends on knowing the science underlying waves as the ocean is a dynamic and always changing surroundings. Surfers have to respect the strength of the water and always adjust to changing conditions; so, knowledge of wave dynamics is quite important for the activity.